Science & Ingredients FAQs

Find answers to common questions about our science and ingredients

Maltese Cross Technology is Zerafite's lipid system, developed by Korean skin barrier scientist Dr. Jong-Kyung Youm, that delivers ceramides, cholesterol, and fatty acids in the same 1:1:1 ratio found in healthy skin. It's named for the cross-shaped pattern these lipids form when a barrier-matching moisturizer is viewed under a cross-polarized microscope. Because the formula mirrors the skin's natural lipid structure, it's designed to reinforce the barrier and support long-lasting hydration.
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The Maltese Cross is a cross-shaped pattern that appears when a moisturizer mimicking the skin's natural barrier is viewed under a cross-polarized microscope. It indicates the product's lipids are arranged in the organized, layered (lamellar) structure healthy skin uses to hold moisture. Zerafite states its formulas show a strong, consistent Maltese Cross pattern reflecting the 1:1:1 lipid ratio.
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These are the three lipids that naturally make up a healthy skin barrier, and skin needs all three to hold moisture and stay protected. Replenishing them, especially in a balanced ratio, helps rebuild the barrier's structure.
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Healthy skin uses roughly equal parts ceramides, cholesterol, and fatty acids. Delivering them in that balance helps the barrier rebuild its natural structure, shown by the Maltese Cross pattern under a microscope.
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Ceramides are lipids that make up a large part of the skin's protective barrier and help it hold onto moisture. In dry or barrier-damaged skin, ceramide levels are often low. Ceramides work best alongside cholesterol and fatty acids, which is why balanced formulas tend to outperform ceramide-only products.
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Not usually. A healthy barrier is built from ceramides, cholesterol, and fatty acids together. A product providing all three in a ratio close to skin's natural composition gives the barrier a more complete set of building blocks than ceramides alone.
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Hyaluronic acid is a humectant meaning it pulls water into the skin but doesn't seal it in or rebuild the barrier. If your barrier is weakened, that water can evaporate. For lasting relief, hyaluronic acid usually needs to be paired with barrier lipids that hold moisture in place.

Humectants (glycerin, hyaluronic acid) attract water into skin. Emollients (fatty acids, plant oils) soften and fill gaps between skin cells. Occlusives form a surface seal to slow water loss. Barrier-focused formulas add skin-identical lipids that rebuild the barrier rather than just coating it.

It refers to ingredients that match what your skin naturally makes, so your barrier can use them directly to rebuild itself. Delivering them in skin's natural 1:1:1 ratio is what forms the Maltese Cross pattern.

Zerafite's barrier creams are built around the brand's lipid technology; Wrinkle Defense, Skin Brightening, Body Cream, and the Cleanser list Ceramide NP directly. Barrier Repair and Soothing & Calming use the brand's lipid ("MLE") system.